Thursday, April 25, 2013

Celebrate Cinco de Mayo Like a Mexican This Year!



Cinco de Mayo is More Than Just a Day to Get Borracho in a Mexican Restaurant... Why Not Celebrate It This Year like the Mexicans Do?

A true test of a Mexican restaurant’s dedication to regionality, as well as seasonality (unfortunately... as I would love to have it year-round) is Chiles en Nogada, a dish that many would call the “national dish” of Mexico.

Chiles en Nogada are served only when pomegranates are in season.

To make a long story interminable, the dish was “invented” in the town of Puebla in 1821 by Augustinian nuns of the Santa Monica convent to honor Agustin de Iturbide, the commander of the Mexican army who had fought in the battle for Mexico’s independence from France. The treaty that granted Mexico this independence was signed in Veracruz and on his way back to Mexico City, de Iturbide was treated by the nuns with a dish using local and seasonal  ingredients, called chiles en nogada, which means chile (in this case, a Poblano pepper ) in walnut sauce. 

The dish has the colors of the Mexican flag in it... red from the seeds of the pomegranate; white from the walnut sauce; and green from the Poblano chile. The period of time that the dish is served in Mexico, as well as in Houston at Hugo’s Regional Mexican Cuisine (1600 Westheimer Rd  Houston, TX 77006, 713-524-7744) and Pico's Mex-Mex (5941 Bellaire Blvd  Houston, TX 77081, 713-662-8383) is determined by the availabity of the fresh pomegranates.

Chiles en Nogada are a prominent component of authentic Mexican restaurants' seasonal menus and, as one who has enjoyed the dish in Puebla, as well as throughout Mexico, Hugo’s and Pico's versions are truly authentic. When you try it, don't complain if it is served as it is in Mexico, with the walnut sauce (nogada) cold or at room temperature. 

Celebrate Cinco de Mayo like a Mexican this year and make plans to enjoy great Margaritas, Mexican Cerveza and Chiles en Nogada on Cinco de Mayo.

I offer below the recipe for Hugo's version of Chiles en Nogada. Pico's is equally tasty, but I have never been able to get Arnaldo to commit his recipe to the written word for me:

RECIPE: Chiles en Nogada
(serves 8)

12 ounces boneless pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes
4 cups pork stock or water
3 tablespoons corn oil
2 roasted tomatoes, peeled and chopped
2 tablespoons chopped white onion
1 garlic clove, chopped
1 pound fresh peaches, large dice, skin on
1 pound fresh Washington Red apples, large dice, skin on
1 pound fresh Bosc pears, large dice, skin on
1 large ripe plantain, large dice, skinned
1/3 cup raisins, whole
1/3 cup sliced almonds, toasted
3 tablespoons sugar
8 large poblano peppers, carefully roasted, peeled and     seeded keeping stems attached
2 cups white flour for dredging pork
1 tablespoon salt for dredging pork mixture

Seeds of 2 ripe, fresh pomegranates for final garnish. (about 8-10 seeds on top of each pepper

For the pork mixture:

Simmer the meat in the stock or water over low heat until it is soft (approx. 2 hours).  Cool and shred it.  Set aside.  In a large saucepan, heat the corn oil and fry the tomatoes with the onion and garlic. Cook until the liquid evaporates.  Then add all the fruit, almonds, sugar and meat and cook together for about 10 minutes. Cool mixture. 

The peppers:

Stuff the prepared peppers with the pork mixture, being extra careful not to tear them.  When the sauce has been made and the peppers stuffed and ready to serve, dredge the peppers in flour seasoned with salt.

Walnut Sauce:

3 cups milk
4 cups of walnuts
½ cup Cinzano Sweet Vermouth
4 ounces queso anejo
4 ounces queso fresco
1 cup sugar


Blend all five ingredients together into a smooth sauce. Serve cold over finished chiles.

To serve:

Sauté the floured, stuffed peppers in corn oil and finish them in a 325-degree oven for 20 minutes, carefully turning them from time to time.  Arrange the 8 peppers on your serving platter.  Pour the cold walnut sauce over the peppers and garnish with the pomegranate seeds.  Serve with white rice if desired.

Saturday, March 23, 2013

Pesca World Seafood Restaurant

Shame on you, Houston! After a wonderful lunch at Pesca, I wondered why I had been able to get a table for lunch on a Friday.



Just three months ago, Alberto Alfonzo opened Pesca World Seafood Restaurant, a new concept in the West Gray near Shepherd location that used to house Tinto's. It was a Friday at noon and I dropped in for lunch, expecting a wait. I was seated on the pleasant patio and Alfonzo joined me for a few minutes. I asked him to describe the concept.  “Growing up, my family traveled to the coastal cities around the Gulf of Mexico...  from Texas to Florida, and throughout the Caribbean,” stated Alfonzo. “I love to eat and cook great seafood and created my menu for Pesca based on the dishes I fell in love with, like my Isla Mujeres Flounder, which I discovered on a trip to the Mexican Caribbean with my wife when we visited Isla Mujeres.


“To me, ‘tapas’ is not a single dish, but a way of eating.”

I asked him why his menu referred to "Tapas" rather than appetizers. “To me, ‘tapas’ is not a single dish, but a way of eating,” added Alfonzo. “Order three or eight different dishes, and create the meal of your dreams, to share or not. I grew up eating with a very large family. When you had something that was wonderful, you shared with your sisters, brothers, aunts and uncles. Sharing was our way of celebrating.”

Cuban Shrimp Scampi

I started with a Cuban Shrimp Scampi. It was a great way to start and it set the tone for the lunch. The combination of the savory shrimp with the sweet plantains topped with agria sour cream and wasabi micro greens was an unexpected contrast in texture and flavors.

Portuguese Seafood Stew

Next, at the suggestion of the server, I ordered a Portuguese Seafood Stew. This savory seafood soup was piled high with Clams, Squid, Shrimp, Fish, a Sofrito base and Chorizo immediately reminded me of a filling, rich bowl of San Francisco's famous Cioppino without the crab. It was truly delicious.

Pretzel Crab Cakes

The menu offered something that I had to try, back on the Tapas section... Pretzel Crab Cakes. I certainly never heard of that combination before. Alfonzo is definitely creative. I worried that the VERY light dusting of crushed pretzels might overpower the almost-binder-free jumbo lump crabmeat in the cake... but that wasn't the case. I loved it... and the fact that it was plated amidst a mild mustard cream and a rich roasted red pepper coulis was impressive in flavor as well as presentation.

Fish and Chips

Next, "Fish and Chips". I put quotes around it, as it definitly is not the typical British Fish and Chips dish that we have all had. The Cod is battered in a coating that is more like a tempura batter than the crisp ones you may be used to. I thought that this preparation took the focus off of the crust and allowed the flavor of the Cod to shine through. It was served with crispy fries and a really tangy red cocktail sauce and a house-made tartar sauce. 

Cheese Cake

I can't tell you what the real name of the (server suggested) Cheese Cake, but I CAN tell you that I would order it again (and again). This dessert was a combination of the flavors and textures of both Flan and Cheesecake. Another flavor and textural surprise. I can tell you that if you order it wanting either a cheesecake experience OR a flan experience, you will be happy.

Pesca World Seafood Restaurant
2015 West Gray St. Ste. J.
Houston, Texas 77019
Phone 713-522-1330 : Fax: 713-522-1348





Friday, March 22, 2013

The Top Ten Most Popular Articles on This Blog (By Type of Food/Restaurant or Recipe)?

I thought it would be instructive to take a look at the most popular posts on this blog and rank the Top Ten from the standpoint of the number of hits by type of food, restaurant or recipe.  Frankly, I was quite surprised at the number of people who were interested in finding a good hot dog in Houston:

The number of "hits" on all of these fall in the thousands, but out of 58 posts, the most popular article posted (with 5,676 VISITSwas:

#1. Taste of Chicago... Where to Find da Dogs, da Italian Beefs, da Pizzas in Houston


http://jacktylerdines.blogspot.com/2011/07/taste-of-chicago-da-dogs-da-italian.html

#2. Caribbean Cuisine Restaurant


http://jacktylerdines.blogspot.com/2011/06/caribbean-cuisine-restaurant.html

#3. London Sizzler Indian Restaurant


http://jacktylerdines.blogspot.com/2011/06/london-sizzler-indian-restaurant.html


#4. Las Ventanas Restaurant and Cantina 

  
http://jacktylerdines.blogspot.com/2011/03/las-ventanas-restaurant-and-cantina.html


#5. Claudia's Fresh-Mex Opens in Northwest Houston


http://jacktylerdines.blogspot.com/2012/02/claudias-fresh-mex-opens-in-northwest.html

#6. Hugo's Regional Mexican Cuisine


http://jacktylerdines.blogspot.com/2011/07/hugos-regional-mexican-cuisine-test-and.html

#7. Texas Corn Bread... My Texas Family Tradition and Recipe


http://jacktylerdines.blogspot.com/2011/12/texas-corn-bread-recipe.html

#8. The REAL Caesar's Salad... Its History and Recipe


http://jacktylerdines.blogspot.com/2011/10/real-caesars-salad-its-history-and.html


#9. Viva Mexican Independence Day... and Pass the Chiles en Nogada


http://jacktylerdines.blogspot.com/2011/09/viva-mexico-independence-day-september.html


#10. El Real Tex-Mex Cafe'


http://jacktylerdines.blogspot.com/2011/04/el-real-tex-mex-cafe.html



Tuesday, March 19, 2013

Tommy’s to Host a Side-By-Side Tasting of Galveston Bay Oyster Appellations on Saturday, April 6th, 2013


Whether You’re a Forker, a Slurper or a Dunker, You CAN Tell the Difference!



I have been eating “Gulf of Mexico” and “Galveston Bay” oysters on the half-shell since 1956 and must admit that, like many others, was a Dunker when I first tried them. I started my love affair with oysters at the Acme Oyster House in New Orleans’ French Quarter. On that day, it was dunking the oyster into a cocktail sauce, nestling it atop a saltine cracker and devouring a dozen of them. I was no longer a raw oyster virgin and I enjoyed them from the first bite.

As I grew up on Galveston Bay, I ate pedestrian “Galveston Bay” oysters all of my life (I had grown from a Dunker to a Slurper (tipping the oyster and the water from the vicinity of the reef from which it was harvested from its shell into my chewing machine). I never knew the difference between the many appellations of Galveston Bay oysters. In fact, it was just a few days ago, at a side-by-side comparison between oysters from different reefs in Galveston Bay (at the feet of the Master, Tommy Tollett of Tommy’s Restaurant & Oyster Bar in Clear Lake City), that I really learned to appreciate the differences in taste, texture and appearance. Jeri’s Seafood of Smith Point, Tommy Tollett, Louisiana Foods and the Galveston Bay Foundation all want you to start ordering Galveston Bay oysters by appellation rather than just accepting the erroneous stigma that there is an appellation called “Galveston Bay Oyster”.

You have heard of Chesapeake Oysters and Blue Point Oysters and possibly several other of the dozens of appellations of the along the East coast. It is important to note that most of these are the same species (Virginica) that we have in Galveston Bay! The differences come from the characteristics of the water… the reefs and the salinity in the water around the reefs. Along the west coast of the United States, there are different species, as well as dozens of appellations of them, also.

On my recent visit to Tommy’s Restaurant and Oyster Bar, I sampled the vast differences (in my opinion) between the Pepper Grove, Stephenson’s Reef and the standard pedestrian “Galveston Bay generic oyster” that we have probably all had when oysters are shucked for us at $5.00/dozen. The various reefs that these oysters are harvested from are many and the ones you are eating may change daily. Examples might be oysters from San Antonio Bay, or Compano from Aransas Pass.

Here’s a map of the reefs in Galveston Bay:

http://www.oysterguide.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Oyster_Map_Tommys.pdf


Galveston Bay Reefs Map
 is prominently Displayed in the Restaurant

While your tastes may differ from mine, I will describe my experience of tasting three different Texas Gulf Coast oysters presented to me by Tommy Tollett:


Pepper Grove


 Pepper Grove

My first oyster appellation was a Pepper Grove. The Pepper Grove reef is in East Galveston Bay northeast of the tip of the Bolivar Peninsula. The oyster was very plump and relatively symmetrical around the muscle… and truly a multi-level taste experience. Due to the salinity of the water around the reef and the fact that the water is the first thing you taste, the first level of the tasting was a slight salinity. Then as the oyster is chewed, the next level is a slight (and very pleasant) mineral taste. Then, there is a very slight sweet finish. Sounds like someone describing a wine, doesn’t it?


Stephenson Point


Stephenson Point

The next oyster was a Stephenson Point. Stephenson Reef is in the farthest north area of the East Bay and is just offshore and east of Smith Point. There is some of fresh and brackish runoff into the reef, therefore there was less salinity at first bite and also a more smooth transition of flavors encountered throughout. Of those tasted, this was my favorite… but there are so many more reefs to explore. So many appellations and so little time!


San Antonio Bay

San Antonio Bay

As the pedestrian “generic” Texas oysters gave their lives for me, I owe it to them to describe the flavor, texture and appearance of these common cheap oysters available in most oyster bars and restaurants in the area. The ones I tried were from San Antonio Bay. It was what I had eaten (and been satisfied with) most of my life. Compared with the two other appellations I tried, there was far less flavor from the oyster itself. The dominant taste throughout was higher salinity… and the appearance reflected the structural and textural deficiency of the oyster (Compared with "Appellation" oysters). Sorry, San Antonio Bay, I will never be completely satisfied with you again. I’ll eat you if you are all I can get, but I will know that there is a more delightful oyster experience out there.


Just a Little Oyster Trivia is That Commercially Harvested
Oysters are Around Three Years Old. Note the Three rings on This
Oyster, Indicating Approximately Three Years of Growth.


Angel's Lightening-Fast Shucking

Tommy Tollett sells more than 10,000 oysters a week and he recycles more than 110 tons of shells annually in Galveston Bay reefs, in cooperation with the Galveston Bay Foundation.


Seared Shrimp Atop Romaine and Tomatoes


Key Lime Pie

By the way, I ate the three dozen oysters for lunch and enjoyed a beautiful Romaine salad with grilled jumbo shrimp as a starter… and the most interesting Key Lime Pie I’ve ever had for dessert:

On Saturday, April 6th,  from 2 PM to 5 PM, Tommy will host an Oyster Appellation Tasting (from 8 to 12 appellations) of different oysters from Galveston Bay reefs,  at Tommy’s Restaurant & Oyster Bar, 2555 Bay Area Boulevard. Dr. Sammy Ray, world-renowned marine biology professor from Texas A & M University will be honored at the event. According to Tollett, Dr. Ray is the foremost authority on oysters from Galveston Bay. A portion of the proceeds will benefit the Galveston Bay Foundation. Cost of the event is $50/person and tickets to the event may be purchased at Tommy’s Restaurant & Oyster Bar, or the Galveston Bay Foundation. For more information, call 281-480-2221.

Tommy's Restaurant & Oyster Bar
2555 Bay Area Blvd.
Houston, Texas 77058
281-480-2221



Sunday, March 10, 2013

Pizziola's Cafe' in Humble


Houston's "First Family of Italian Cuisine" Opens a Restaurant in Humble



Maybe fifteen years ago, Sally and I lived WAY out in Memorial and our local neighborhood Italian restaurant was Frank Triola’s Azzarelli’s on Eldridge. It later moved to Memorial near Gessner and our relationship faded away a little.

Last week, I was out in northeast Houston (on 1960 near 59 North) and spotted a new restaurant. It was so new that it had a banner over the front door with the name Pizziola’s Cafe'. A new restaurant is fresh meat to me and I stopped in for lunch. As soon as I entered the front door, there stood Frank Triola. I felt comfortable and knew that the new restaurant was probably going to please me. Frank Triola, after all, is part of the blood line that he is quick to point out was Houston’s first Italian restaurant that opened in 1945. I asked Frank what the culinary focus of the restaurant was to be and was told “Great pizza, great Lasagna and Marinara from old family recipes that have matured in my restaurant family for 67 years!” However, I found that the menu was also full of items (chicken, mussels, scallops, shrimp, etc.) in rich creamy cheese sauces and diverse white sauces. Frank Triola is a master saucier.

After a greeting and re-introduction, I settled into a place by the window and ordered far too much food for one person.


Fried Ravioli Marinara

I started with an appetizer of Fried Ravioli Marinara. The house-made ravioli was filled with creamy ricotta, then deep-fried crisp and tossed in Marinara. This is a dish that, in my opinion, should be eaten immediately while the hot creamy ricotta is soft and the breading is crispy. I did and it was a great starter.


Pizza Triola

Next, I plowed through a Pizza Triola. This was reassuring to me that Frank’s repertoire is deep and this white pizza showed that the red checkered table cloths at lunch and Frank Sinatra classic music (reminded me of Mulberry Street in Little Italy, NYC) should not lead customers to believe that this place is just full of Meat Balls, Ravioli, Pasta and Pizzas. The Pizza Triola is crafted from garlic, extra virgin olive oil, prosciutto, ricotta and mozzarella. It was really nice.

By the way, Triola pointed out that in the evening, the restaurant changes from the red and white checkered tablecloths and goes romantic with coordinated table cloths, napkins and candles.


Chicken Zukero

Next, as I watched a petite Italian-American woman scarf down a Meatball Sub that was far bigger than her head, I chose the Chicken Zukero, with a grilled chicken breast topped with artichoke hearts and mushrooms in a caper lemon sauce. If there weren’t so many other items on the menu that I would like to try, this would be my order on my next visit.


Lasagna al Forno

Sally asked me to bring home some lunch for her, so I ordered Lasagna al Forno to go. After tasting the lasagna, I allowed them to place it carefully in a doggie bag (to preserve the presentation). It was the lasagna that we used to get at Azzarelli's, and one of the reasons we frequented that restaurant.

Impressive to me was the traditional classic Lasagna presented on a bed of marinara... not drowned in the sauce.

Italian-style Cheese Cake

An Italian-style Cheese Cake was suggested for dessert and that ricotta and cream cheese pie was my very pleasant accompaniment to my after-dinner coffee.

The menu also sports eight 12” pizzas that range from artisan to classic; 12 pasta items with sauces that range from Alfredo, to Marinara, to Pesto, to Marsala wine, and much more. You probably ought to give Pizziola’s a try.

Pizziola’s
CAFE'
Family-Style Italian Dining

8790 FM 1960 Bypass Road West

Humble, Texas 77338

281-446-2295

Wednesday, February 27, 2013

10 Places to to Enjoy Organs, Bugs, Stinky Fruit, Feet, Ears and Edible Offal (or, The Adventurous Diner in Houston).


Pan Sautéed Grasshoppers

This is NOT a Houston version of Andrew Bizarre Foods America. There is nothing "gross" in this list. It is merely a guide to some of the food items eaten as staples all over the world (and in Houston), yet shied away from by many here as weird or icky. Remember that in many poorer countries such as in South America, Central America, Mexico in North America, people don't waste food like we do! There is a tasty way to eat every part of the "food animals" that are indigenous to the area. Even along the bayous in Louisiana, Cajuns love to celebrate the "whole hog" where at celebrations called boucheries, friends and neighbors gather and dance to Zydeco music while they cook and eat everything on/in the hog except the hair on its chinny chin chin.

Try these dishes... you will like them (most of them). The purpose of this article is for many to broaden their culinary horizons.   Here are some delightful dishes and where  to find them ("Delightful" except for the Durian, in MY opinion).  Many will say that they have tried most of them. 95% will not have tried all of them (if any at all). Why not make this your bucket list of bugs and edible offal?  You will not qualify to compete for the title of “The most interesting man (or woman) in the world” without putting a dent in this list. Hey, I'm just trying to help you gather a crowd at the next party you go to!

1. Pork Salivary and Pituitary Glands

Pork Salivary Gland and Pituitary Gland Scrambled Eggs
(Huevos y Chorizo)

If I asked you to try pork salivary glands and pituitary glands, you might say “No, thank you.”, yet you have probably already eaten them and loved them. Take a look at the ingredients on the label on any package of Chorizo. Pig salivary and Pituitary glands are the main ingredients in most versions of Chorizo. Now that you see that you have probably already taken the first step toward being a culinary adventurer, see how far you can get down this list! I started with this item that will seem like a no-brainer. Most Texans have eaten dishes like the scrambled eggs with chorizo that I made above.  My question to you is if you had known what you were ordering the first time you ate Chorizo, would you have still ordered it if the menu said "Scrambled eggs with tender pig salivary and pituitary glands", might you have just ordered ham & eggs?  With that in mind, the next nine offerings might seem a little less frightening. Just sayin'...
2. Chapulines (Pan Sautéed Grasshoppers) at Hugo’s

Chapulines at Hugo's

I start off with Chapulines (grasshoppers), a menu item at Hugo’s Regional Mexican Cuisine at 1600 Westheimer in Houston, because it is something that makes most people (who are not adventurous) shiver at the thought of eating them... until they try them. I have eaten them in more than a dozen places in Houston and Mexico. I’ve had them as menu items in tacos, sopes, or sold as munchies piled on a table at outdoor markets in town squares and farmers markets in Oaxaca, Chiapas and even in Tijuana. Crispy, nutty and buttery, I order them every time I see them anywhere. The important point here is that of all of those who I’ve convinced to try them, no matter how much they were afraid of that first bite... LOVED them and was surprised by that fact.

3. Blood Sausage at Pradaria Churrascaria
 
Blood Sausage at Pradaria Churrascaria
 
Blood Sausage Queso Fundido at Hay Merchant
 
Blood Sausage Queso Fundido w/House-Made Tortillas
at Hay Merchant 
 
Also called Black Pudding or Blood Pudding, it is sausage made from blood or dried blood (sometimes mixed with a filler... but the main thing is that the blood is cooked in a pot until it is thick enough to congeal when it cools. The blood used can be from many different types of animals, but based upon the particular country, it can be from pigs, cattle, sheep, ducks, or goats. It is available in many Houston restaurants, including Pradaria Churrascaria at 10694 Westheimer... and to some, it may be an “acquired taste”. It’s not that the taste is hard to handle, but initial resistance seems to come from the texture of Blood Sausage (and the knowledge of what it is). If you eat your steaks rare, you regularly drink blood anyway. As Blood Sausage may be made in many ways, I also recommend my wife’s favorite version of it, which is at Tango & Malbec. Also, Hay Merchant at 1100 Westheimer has a dish called Blood Sausage Queso Fundido that is a good first step for those who are hesitant to take it straight. Because of the richness of the blood sausage, the Queso Fundido at Hay Merchant is way up there in my favorites. My wife (Sally), though, feels that it is totally unremarkable (yet tasty).

4. Sweetbreads and Kidneys at Pradaria Churrascaria

Sweetbreads (Pancreas)


Kidneys

The wonderful Sweetbreads (Molleja) and Beef Kidneys (Rinon) aren’t on the tip of the average Houstonian’s tongue, but ARE quite common and a delicacy in Brazil, Argentina and Europe (Brits love 'em). The Kidneys are sautéed in oil with herbs and are an essential part of any meal I have at Pradaria Churrascaria. Sweetbreads are "stomach sweetbreads" (also known as heart or belly sweetbreads), which are an animal's pancreas. Kidneys are kidneys. These sweetbreads at Pradaria Churrascaria, 10694 Westheimer, are breaded and fried... and are delicious. The only bad thing about them is the knowledge that they are an animal’s pancreas (an oblong flattened gland located deep in the abdomen).

5. Menudo (Pork or Beef Tripe Soup) at Ruchis Rincon de Mexico (or hundreds of taquerias in Houston)
Menudo

Tripe is the rubbery lining of the stomach of cattle or other ruminants. It is the main ingredient in Menudo (soup). I was eating a bowl of it at Taqueria Arandas on Shepherd near 11th Street on a Sunday morning (it is usually served only on weekends in most Mexican restaurants and Taquerias) and a Hispanic police officer approached our table and told me that he had "never seen a gringo eat it before". Of course, many gringos eat Menudo... but not all of us. The bowl shown here was eaten at Ruchi's Taqueria el Rincon de Mexico on Westheimer at Winrock. Frankly, I can live without it, due to the chewy texture, but I still try it in different places to find a version I can't live without.

6. Sweet and Spicy Pig's Ears at Hay Merchant
Sweet and Spicy Pig's Ears at Hay Merchant

If you are looking for a way to be able to brag about how good the last Pig's Ears you ate were, these at Hay Merchant, 1100 Westheimer, are crispy, and spicy. If you like pork cracklins, you will enjoy these. They are crispy, yet succulent... sweet and slightly spicy and served in a paper bag like popcorn.  Better than popcorn, in my opinion.

7. Head Cheese

Head Cheese
Head cheese (or brawn) is a cold cut that originated in Europe. First of all, Head cheese is not cheese at all, but a terrine or meat jelly made with flesh from the head of a calf or pig (or, a sheep or cow), and often set in aspic. The parts of the head that are used can vary, but it is NOT usually the brain, eyes, or the tongue (sometimes the feet and heart, may be included).
Head cheese may be flavored with onion, black pepper, allspice, bay leaf, salt, and vinegar. It is usually eaten cold or at room temperature as a cold cut for sandwiches. It can also be made from quality trimmings from pork and veal, adding gelatin to the stock as a binder.

The Head Cheese that I have pictured here is from La Michoacana Meat Market at 3012 Hillcroft between Westheimer and Richmond and is made only from the snout and the skin of the head. However, various versions of it are available at most meat markets and many supermarket deli counters in Houston.

8. Durian

Durian


Durian Ready to Eat
 
It's not important to like everything you try (I usually like everything I taste, due to the requirements placed upon me as a child by my parents).  I knew in advance, though,  that I might not care for a Durian. Why? Anything that Andrew Zimmern will not eat again and describes its aroma as like that of a "rotting corpse" gives me pause (maybe a complete stop). BUT, the premise of this article is that it is important to try new and interesting foods... not necessarily to like them. Who knows, you may be the 1 in 10,000,000 people who likes Durian.  They can be found at Hong Kong Market at 11205 Bellaire Blvd, just outside of Wilcrest. I bought the Durian on a Monday morning and, as Monday is garbage pickup day, I opened it, tasted it and photographed it just before the pickup.  After I cut it open (above) my first words were "Sweet mother of God, what have I done?"  Other than the aroma, it was very sweet and I ate several bites (It really WAS tasty). However, the stench kept it from being an enjoyable experience. The aroma has also been described by various people as almonds, rotten onions, turpentine, raw sewage, and gym socks. The odor has led to signs placed on hotel entrances in Southeast Asia announcing the fruit's banishment from the premises.  It is also banned from much public transportation in Southeast Asia, where it is grown. I did MY part.  You can get one large enough to feed your whole family for about five bucks at Hong Kong Market.  Your kids will love it. Just tell them that it's good for them.
 
9. Chicken Feet at Golden Palace
Chicken Feet
The first time saw anyone eat a chicken foot, it was my food/travel writer friend, George Rosenblatt at a Dim Sum restaurant in China Town out Bellaire Drive. I was quiet and didn’t draw attention to the fact that I wasn’t planning to order them. I knew what chickens scratch around it. However, that was in the past and they are now a regular order for me in Chinese restaurants that serve them. When I’m in the mood for Dim Sum and Chicken Feet now, my favorite spot is Golden Palace on Bellaire Blvd.  The feet are served there in a rich bean sauce spiced up with jalapenos. The waitress compliments me by calling me a “brave white guy” when I order them. However, you only have to be brave the first time you order them, as they are delicious, gelatanous, and melt in your mouth.

10. Goat Brains at Indika

Goat Brains at Indika
 
Brains evoke images to many of Hannibal Lechter declaring that he likes his brains "with fava beans and a nice Chianti." Brains get a bad rap. However, many Houstonians enjoy them frequently as specials at Feast, or up Westheimer at Indika (a regular appetizer item for dinner there). You can buy brains at many meat markets like La Michoacana and cook them yourself (They are particularly nice in a creamy soup or chowder).  First of all, there are calf brains around town... there are Halal lamb brains at Phoenicia (many find these to have a little stronger taste),

However, I really like the Goat Brains at Indika. They are braised with an amchur masala, and served on a pistachio and apricot filled naan. The thought always crosses my mind when I eat this dish that it may be the best dish I have ever had... but, without a doubt, this creamy item IS the best Indian dish I have ever had.

A PLACE AT THE TABLE

I know that this article is light-hearted and most of us chuckle about eating these dishes. We look at eating a $12.00 appetizer of brains as being adventurous. However, many in the world are hungry every day and ANY of these things may be all they will get to eat... or might be a luxury.

There are cultures in the world where no food is wasted and “whole hog” isn’t a description of a barbeque event... it is a necessity to eat everything from an animal... NOT an experiment. There are 49,000,000 hungry Americans who actually either go hungry, or are obese because they can only afford unhealthy high fat/calorie fast food for meals. Of the 49,000,000 hungry Americans, 17,000,000 of them are children.  Many full-time workers still rely on soup kitchens to survive.  In 2006, 27,000,000 were on Food Stamps.  In 2012, nearly 50,000,000 are on Food Stamps.

It is estimated that one in four CHILDREN in America does not get enough to eat!

This graph of the progression of the growth of Food Stamp is from www.trivisonno.com
 A PLACE AT THE TABLE, a film documentary by filmmakers Kristi Jacobson and Lori Silverbush (opening Friday, the 1st of March at the River Oaks Theatre) will follow the lives of three people who wage a daily struggle with hunger.  It will also and speak with several experts about what must to be done to ensure that every American is well-fed.  

Companion Book to the Film
 

On Wednesday, February 27th, at the Asia Society, Bank of America invited Houstonians to share an evening with Chef Chris Shepherd, owner of Montrose’s Underbelly (and enjoy food from his restaurant, which he served) and see a pre-opening special screening of Participant Media’s and Magnolia Pictures’ upcoming documentary A Place at the Table, which examines the 49 million people, including one in four children who go hungry in the U.S. every day.
I urge you to see the movie and buy the companion book. Go to www.takepart.com/place-at-the-table and www.publicaffairsbooks.com for more information about how you can get involved.



The evening was sponsored by:
 


 

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